Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Secret Sumatra



















The peak (taken with an old, old body) is located within close distance to the camp at SS (so are about 30 other world class waves), i couldn't recommend the place enough, amazing people, amazing waves, amazing camp and its limited numbers so you wont have to fight over waves with 50 billion Brazilian's like you would if you were in Bali. Do it!
Stoked that it takes pride over the bar, cause thats where i spend the majority of my time when im not in the water! yew.

You've gotta love your mates













This is how to ruin the wave of the session, 15 frames of my mate Dainsy's foot, while the Predator steers his pony through a lurching, bending cavern.
Even though i bring it up every time i see him, i cant really get angry at poor old Dainsy, i mean who wouldnt want to watch...
ahhh well, next time i guess.

the have's and the have not's...














This is how you take a photo from the water when its waist high...
Burleigh, without a drop out of place, my buddy Trent Mitchell and i bodysurfed for several hours this day, straight across the road from my mate Ben Ey's place who unfortunately couldnt make it as deadline also fell on the same day... Next time bennnnnnnny...

Monday, August 24, 2009

Flitter, Flutter...













Stumbled upon this photo the other day, wow, to think it was only in Feb this year.
I was leaving for the airport about an hour after this was taken, saying goodbye to my dog and to my house (which was to be demolished while i was away) for the North Shore of Oahu.

Gee my life has changed so much since then, for the better!
But living in that house was AMAZING! the full beach shack.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

confessions of a teenage beauty queen...

So, the wagon has arrived and i have climbed aboard, ive been getting into some creative and funny peoples blogs and i figured i may have something to offer, so i stand before you now as... a blogger damn it!!!
I think it will be fun (and easier than updating my website) so ahhh, yeah. thanks for coming and all that stuff.

I thought id get the ball rolling with this months Australia's Surfing Life magazine, here are some before and after spreads of mine which they ran...








Intro at Newcastle









Damien Wills punting at South Beach









Old mate timing his jump off









Jason Gava and Sandon lineup












looking through the archway


It was a bit of a surprise really, as i thought they would be run small for some reason, but it was never to be... I was frothing like a little kid to tell you the truth.

Im addicted to newsagents!